Leslie Cerier, who calls herself “The Organic Gourmet,” combines a holistic lifestyle with hands-on vegetarian cooking for health and vitality, as well as writing cookbooks and articles focusing on eating local, seasonal, organic foods. As Leslie will tell you, gluten-free cooking is not just for celiacs or people with wheat-allergies, but can inspire beneficial mood and health changes.
I recently had the opportunity to chat with Leslie about her newest cookbook, “Gluten-Free Recipes for the Conscious Cook” and the benefits of a gluten-free diet, and the importance of eating sustainably for both the mind and body.
Alyssa Berkowitz: Did you always want to be a chef? Any stories of cooking as a child?
Leslie Cerier: I didn’t plan to be a chef. I always loved to cook. In high school I asked my grandmother Ethel how to make her strudel dough. She said, “You take some flour and water and it should look like this.” And I said, “Grandma, how much?” She showed me again and repeated that you take some flour and water and it should look like this. She knew what texture she was looking for. Now when I teach hands-on cooking classes, I encourage people to follow their senses: taste, touch, smell, see, listen, and make it a total sensory experience.
How do you derive influences for your recipes? How does your Jewish background shape your recipes?
I get my inspiration from the local, organic harvest: the fruits, vegetables and herbs of the season; then mix and match a variety of whole foods: grains, beans, grass raised dairy and eggs, nuts and seeds to create globally inspired meals. My Jewish roots inspire me to create healthy twists on classic recipes. For example in my “Kasha Varnishkes” recipe in “Gluten-Free Recipes for the Conscious Cook,” I swapped Quinoa Corn spiral pasta for the classic white wheat bowties; also added sunflower seeds and even collard greens for a colorful and nutrient dense gourmet dish. Top it off with pesto for a yummy meal.
My Jewish influences are more about how to be creative and think out of the box. I guess thinking out of the box is a Jewish thing.
How do you see the relationship between a holistic lifestyle and the eating of whole grains and organic food?
I see it all as one really. I sleep on organic sateen sheets, use natural and organic soaps and cleaning products. I don’t use a microwave. I prefer to cook in cast iron, stainless steel, lead-free enamel and glass. I tune into the natural rhythms and the changing seasons. In cold weather, I cook long simmering soups and bake; in hot weather I make quick sautés and marinated salads I look at the interconnectedness of everything. Years ago, I gave up a promising career as a photographer to avoid toxic, chemicals in the dark room. I now print my photos on 100% cotton canvas. Even my artwork is about sustainability. My latest series, “Photographing the Jewels in the Water” is about sunlight on shallow streams that create natural jewel like patterns, like impressionistic paintings. I’m trying to connect all the dots, inside and out with my deep love of nature.
For some, gluten-free might seem like the next big health-fad. Why do you think eating a gluten-free diet should be something everyone is doing?
Gluten-free whole grains have been around for centuries — they’re not fad foods. They are delicious, loaded with vitamins and minerals, great for energy and stamina. I’m not gluten-free myself, but often prefer to eat gluten-free grains and flours for their taste and nutrition. Also since there is genetically modified wheat on the market, it might be that folks are really intolerant of the petrochemicals used to grow common wheat, which contributes to health problems. A diet rich in gluten-free whole grains can enhance everyone’s health and vitality; expand your cooking repertoire and celebrate the earth’s bounty.
Some people think that gluten-free dishes don’t taste as good. What would you say in response?
When I teach, I introduce people to many tasty gluten-free grains like teff, amaranth, rice, and quinoa. My recipes are simple, and when you use fresh seasonal and organic ingredients, they’re going to taste great. It’s like any kind of cooking: you have to understand how to use herbs and spices to create tasty dishes. My daughters aren’t gluten free either, but they prefer the Cinnamon Banana Pancakes made with teff flour instead of wheat. This isn’t about depravation. I’m using real foods, not processed food. Gluten-free grains are full of life and flavor.
While reading through your cookbook, I was surprised at how many ingredients seemed new or unusual to me, which makes gluten-free cooking seem like a challenge. What advice can you give to people looking to start cooking gluten-free who might be scared by the ingredients?
My suggestion: stay out of the supermarket. For the more rare ingredients in the cookbook, there is a mail-order section in the back of “Gluten-Free Recipes for the Conscious Cook.” Also, my mother taught me to ask for what you want. Ask stores to stock the ingredients you want. Make the products available. Start the real food revolution.
I taught my sorghum salad (one of the lesser known grains) in a recent class. I cooked it like a Mediterranean couscous salad, and everyone was like, “Wow.” I’m introducing people to different textures, flavors, and the fun of eating really well. Yeah it’s challenging if you’re just thinking of the challah you normally eat every Friday night, but if you’re thinking of variety you’re really going to have fun and thrive.
In addition to writing cookbooks and catering, you also teach classes. Do you have any exciting classes coming up?
I’m teaching a “Thriving Gluten-Free” class at the Omega Institute in Rhinebeck, NY July 6-8. The class includes continuing education credits and I’ll be co-teaching with celiac expert, dietician and author, Melinda Dennis. In addition to culinary nutrition and hands-on cooking classes, I offer telephone consultations. I also have an online course, “Wraps and Rolls.”
What’s an ingredient you think everyone should have in his or her pantry? Why?
Flexibility. But aside from that, I think everyone should stock a variety of whole grains. At least four to six different whole grains and most whole grains are gluten-free.
Any last things you want our readers to know?
Whether you’re gluten free or not, including a wide variety of gluten-free grains in your diet is good for you and good for the planet. Ecologically, gluten-free grains could be part of the solution for our changing climate: some can grow in drier climates; others in flooded areas; some use less seed for higher yields and all offer great nutrition. Eating gluten-free isn’t just about personal health; it could be part of the solution for feeding the masses during climate change.
Quinoa and Shiitake Pilaf Serves 6 to 8
Leeks, celery, and mushrooms enliven this pilaf and give it a flavor reminiscent of a Thanksgiving stuffing. If you like, you can substitute other types of mushrooms for the shiitakes. White button mushrooms, criminis, or portobellos would all be great choices.
1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 1/2 cups chopped leeks (white and tender green parts)
2 cups chopped celery
1 1/2 cups stemmed and sliced shiitake mushrooms
1 3/4 cups quinoa, rinsed
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
3 1/2 cups boiling water
Heat the oil in a medium-size saucepan or skillet (one with a tight-fitting lid) over medium heat. Add the leeks, celery, and mushrooms and sauté, stirring continuously for about 5 minutes, until vegetables become fragrant and their colors brighten. Stir in the quinoa and salt. Lower the heat, then slowly pour in the water. Cover and simmer for about 15 minutes, until all of the water is absorbed.
Many of Leslie’s recipes can be adapted for Passover, but most of the gluten-free grains are considered kitnyot so those of Ashkenazic background may choose not to eat them.
Alyssa Berkowitz is a senior in the Joint Program between Columbia University and the Jewish Theological Seminary. She is currently the Food Programs Intern at Hazon.
Spicy North African Vegetable Soup with Chickpeas
There are dozens of different basil varieties from which to choose. The delicate sweet-flavored “sacred basil” called for in this soup is commonly used in the cuisines of Africa, India, and the Far East. Although sacred basil is recommended in this recipe, you can use any basil variety.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
2 quarts water
2 cups cooked chickpeas
1 cinnamon stick
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
6 cloves garlic, thickly sliced
1/2 teaspoon chili pepper flakes
1 cup coarsely chopped onions
1/2 cup coarsely chopped carrots
2 1/2 cups coarsely chopped unpeeled sweet potatoes
2 cups bite-sized cauliflower florets
1 teaspoon turmeric
3 cups coarsely chopped mustard greens
2 tablespoons dried sacred basil or other basil variety
1 teaspoon sea salt, or to taste
1. Bring the water, chickpeas, and cinnamon stick to boil in a 6-quart stockpot. Reduce the heat to medium-low,
cover, and simmer 10 to 15 minutes, or until the cinnamon stick uncurls.
2. While the chickpeas simmer, heat the oil in a medium sized skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic, chili flakes,
onions, and carrots, and sauté, stirring occasionally for 5 minutes, or until the onions begin to soften.
3. When the cinnamon stick uncurls, transfer the sautéed vegetables to the stockpot along with the sweet potatoes,
cauliflower, and turmeric. Simmer covered for 20 minutes, or until the sweet potatoes and cauliflower are tender.
4. Add the mustard greens and continue to simmer 2 to 3 minutes, or until bright green. Stir in the basil and salt.
Adjust the seasonings, if desired.
5. Ladle the hot soup into bowls and serve.
Yams and collards combine with teff, herbs, and spices, creating a beautiful mosaic pattern in this robust grain loaf. Serve as a side dish or as a vegetarian main dish.
Makes: 8 slices Serving size: 1 slice
3 cups water
3 1/2 cups thinly sliced yams
1 cup teff
1/2 teaspoon sea salt, or to taste
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 1/2 cups coarsely chopped leeks
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
2 cups coarsely chopped collard greens
2 cups coarsely chopped basil
1/2 cup coarsely chopped cilantro
1. Bring the water, yams, teff, and salt to boil in a 4-quart stockpot. Reduce the heat to low and simmer covered for 20 minutes.
2. While the teff mixture simmers, heat a medium-sized skillet over medium heat. Add the oil, leeks, fennel, and cumin, and satué 2 to 3 minutes or until fragrant. Stir in the collard greens and sauté about 3 minutes, or until bright green.
3. Transfer the collard mixture to the teff mixture, cover, and continue to simmer another few minutes, or until all of the liquid is absorbed.
4. Turn off the heat and stir the basil and cilantro into mixture. Adjust the seasonings, if desired.
5. Spoon the mixture into an 8-inch unoiled loaf pan, and let stand about 30 minutes, or until firm.
These cookies are quick, easy and fun to make. I love shaping them with my hands, but you could also use a cookie cutter.
Makes: 12 to 18 cookies depending on how big you make them
2 cups whole wheat pastry flour or spelt flour
1/3 cup canola oil
1/3 cup maple syrup
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
3/4 cup chocolate chips
1/2 teaspoon mint extract
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
Preheat the oven to 375º F.
Combine all the ingredients in a large bowl. Mix them together briefly with a wooden spoon; then shape them into cookies with your hands.
To use cookie cutters, flatten some batter between your hands and place it on a pastry board. Press in a cookie cutter and shake gently. Pull away the excess. Repeat till you use all the batter.
Arrange the cookies on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake for 10 minutes. Let them cool before eating.
Wishing you a great local, seasonal and organic feast!
Cilantro Pesto, recipe by Leslie Cerier from Gluten-Free Recipes for the Conscious Cook
Cilantro Pesto
Makes about 2 cups
Here’s a delicious pesto made with cilantro instead of the traditional basil. It’s great on any type of noodles, but especially delightful on Asian noodles, such as 100% buckwheat soba or bifun, quick-cooking clear angel hair noodles made from rice flour and potato starch. You may be surprised to learn that it’s also a fabulous dip and pizza topping. Spread it on top of a prebaked gluten-free pizza crust and top with sliced bell peppers, olives, and marinated dried tomatoes (see page 00 for a recipe for making your own).
1/2 cup raw almonds, presoaked if you like
1/2 cup raw sunflower seeds, presoaked if you like
2 1/2 cups tightly packed cilantro leaves
6 cloves garlic
1/2 cup water
5 tablespoons umeboshi vinegar
Put the almonds in a food processor and grind to a coarse meal. Add the sunflower seeds and continue grinding until they too have a texture like coarse meal. Add the cilantro, garlic, water, and umeboshi vinegar and blend until almost smooth. Taste and adjust the seasonings if desired.
Although I have a few favorite flavored oils and vinegars that I make every year, like Blueberry Balsamic Vinegar with Vanilla Bean and Garlic Scape ( GArlic Flower) oil, I am always experimenting and concocting new combinations. I also encourage you to use your local harvest of fruits, herbs, spices, edible flowers, nuts, and more to create your own tasty flavored oils and vinegars. Start with one spice like a chili pepper or garlic scape or one herb like basil and then let that be a springboard for your imagination. You can combine several spices and herbs together: one of my favorites is cilantro, basil and chilies.
To show you how simple it is, I have a whole chapter on Making Your own Flavored oil and Vinegars in my cookbook, Going Wild in the Kitchen. Here is the recipe from Going Wild in the Kitchen for Garlic Flower Oil. It is easy to make and very tasty and keeps well for months, too.
Garlic Scape Oil recipe from Leslie Cerier's cookbook, Going Wild in the Kitchen
Garlic Flower Oil
Capture summer in a bottle with the mild garlicky flavor of garlic scapes. Use this oil to add the essence of garlic to marinated sun-dried tomatoes, roasted vegetables, pizza, pasta, eggs, sauces, soups, and dressings—on anything you would use fresh garlic and olive oil.
Yield: About 1 cup
2 cups coarsely chopped garlic scapes (stems and blossoms)
1 1/4 cups extra virgin olive oil
1. Loosely pack the scapes in a clean pint jar, leaving about an inch of space at the top. Add enough oil to cover (still leaving an inch of space). Using a butter knife, gently press down the scapes to eliminate any air pockets.
2. Put the cap on the jar, and add a label that includes the contents, date prepared, and approximate date the oil will be ready (2 to 6 weeks from the preparation date).
3. Place the jar on a small plate and set on a windowsill. After 2 weeks, taste the oil. If stronger flavor is desired, let it continue to steep. Continue to check once a week.
4. When the oil is ready, pour it through a fine mesh strainer or cheesecloth into a bowl, wide-mouth jar, or measuring cup. Before discarding the strained scapes, either squeeze them with your hands with and without the cheesecloth or press them against the strainer with the back of a spoon to get every last drop of oil.
5. Transfer the oil to a clean clear or dark bottle or jar with a lid or cork, and label it with the type of oil and date. Store in a cool dry place, where it will keep for at least a year.
Here is coupon savings on delicious foods for health, vitality and pleasure.
I have a coupon code to save 15% off all Navitasnatural.com products, especially good news for all those wanting to make my dark chocolate truffles, which are loaded with navitasnaturals.com superfoods: cacao butter, cacao powder, maca, gogi berries, and more. Here is the recipe from my website that has everyone (nationwide) in my cooking classes smiling: http://lesliecerier.com/blog/category/recipes/cacao-2/
Ground almonds replace the flour and add sweetness to the topping for this fabulous fruit crisp. From Going Wild in the Kitchen.
Serves: 4 to 6
Topping:
3/4 cup almonds
2 cups rolled oats
1/4 cup plain or black walnuts, halved
1/4 cup whole cashews
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1/2 cup maple syrup
1/4 cup canola oil
Filling:
1 1/2 cups fresh or frozen raspberries
1 1/2 cups sliced pears
1 cup peeled, sliced apples
1/2 cup maple syrup
1/4 cup organic canola oil or melted extra coconut oil, or other healthy vegetable oil
1 cup peach juice or other fruit juice
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
To make the topping, place the almonds in a food processor and grind to a meal. Transfer to a large mixing bowl along with the oats, walnuts, cashews, and salt, and mix well. Add the maple syrup and oil, and stir until well blended.
Arrange the raspberries, pears, apples, and blueberries in the bottom of a 2-quart baking dish. Cover with the topping, pour the juice on top, and bake 30 minutes, or until the fruit is hot and bubbly and the topping is crisp. Serve warm, spooned into bowls.
Nut and seed milks are fun and easy to make, and the homemade version are much more delicious than anything you could buy. They’re also an excellent alternative to juices and dairy milks. They’re lighter and more refreshing, and some say they’re less likely to cause congestion. You can use them as the liquid in porridges, baked goods, or waffle and pancake batters, or you can use them in smoothies or drink them straight for a delicious, cool summer beverage. I’ve provided a recipe for almond milk. This recipe is from my latest cookbook, Gluten-Free Recipes for the Conscious Cook.
In Gluten-Free Recipes for the Conscious Cook, I also included a sidebar for information on making your own hazelnut milk, hemp seed milk, and milks from a variety of other nuts and seeds.
Many people find that presoaking the almonds makes them easier to digest, but you can skip that step if you like.
1/2 cup raw almonds (with skins)
2 cups water
Combine the almonds and 1 1/2 cups of water and soak them overnight or for at least 12 hours.
Drain the almonds, discarding their soaking water, then rinse and drain well.
Put the almonds and the 2 cups of water in a blender. Blend until smooth or until the water looks like milk. ) Pour the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing the almond meal with the back of a spoon to get every last drop of almond milk. (You can also strain the milk using cheesecloth or a nut milk bag; be sure to squeeze to get every last drop of milk.) Discard the almond meal.
Almond Milk is also excellent in creamy vegan sauces and soups, and in cakes, brownies, and other baked goods. I like almond milk and hazelnut milk over granola and for baking brownies and other pastries because they are light and sweet.
As you can see from my photo of pitchers of Almond Milk that was taken in my Great Grains in the Morning Workshop, Almond Milk has a nice froth and even looks like dairy milk. Bon Appetite.
