Leslie Cerier, who calls herself “The Organic Gourmet,” combines a holistic lifestyle with hands-on vegetarian cooking for health and vitality, as well as writing cookbooks and articles focusing on eating local, seasonal, organic foods. As Leslie will tell you, gluten-free cooking is not just for celiacs or people with wheat-allergies, but can inspire beneficial mood and health changes.
I recently had the opportunity to chat with Leslie about her newest cookbook, “Gluten-Free Recipes for the Conscious Cook” and the benefits of a gluten-free diet, and the importance of eating sustainably for both the mind and body.
Alyssa Berkowitz: Did you always want to be a chef? Any stories of cooking as a child?
Leslie Cerier: I didn’t plan to be a chef. I always loved to cook. In high school I asked my grandmother Ethel how to make her strudel dough. She said, “You take some flour and water and it should look like this.” And I said, “Grandma, how much?” She showed me again and repeated that you take some flour and water and it should look like this. She knew what texture she was looking for. Now when I teach hands-on cooking classes, I encourage people to follow their senses: taste, touch, smell, see, listen, and make it a total sensory experience.
How do you derive influences for your recipes? How does your Jewish background shape your recipes?
I get my inspiration from the local, organic harvest: the fruits, vegetables and herbs of the season; then mix and match a variety of whole foods: grains, beans, grass raised dairy and eggs, nuts and seeds to create globally inspired meals. My Jewish roots inspire me to create healthy twists on classic recipes. For example in my “Kasha Varnishkes” recipe in “Gluten-Free Recipes for the Conscious Cook,” I swapped Quinoa Corn spiral pasta for the classic white wheat bowties; also added sunflower seeds and even collard greens for a colorful and nutrient dense gourmet dish. Top it off with pesto for a yummy meal.
My Jewish influences are more about how to be creative and think out of the box. I guess thinking out of the box is a Jewish thing.
How do you see the relationship between a holistic lifestyle and the eating of whole grains and organic food?
I see it all as one really. I sleep on organic sateen sheets, use natural and organic soaps and cleaning products. I don’t use a microwave. I prefer to cook in cast iron, stainless steel, lead-free enamel and glass. I tune into the natural rhythms and the changing seasons. In cold weather, I cook long simmering soups and bake; in hot weather I make quick sautés and marinated salads I look at the interconnectedness of everything. Years ago, I gave up a promising career as a photographer to avoid toxic, chemicals in the dark room. I now print my photos on 100% cotton canvas. Even my artwork is about sustainability. My latest series, “Photographing the Jewels in the Water” is about sunlight on shallow streams that create natural jewel like patterns, like impressionistic paintings. I’m trying to connect all the dots, inside and out with my deep love of nature.
For some, gluten-free might seem like the next big health-fad. Why do you think eating a gluten-free diet should be something everyone is doing?
Gluten-free whole grains have been around for centuries — they’re not fad foods. They are delicious, loaded with vitamins and minerals, great for energy and stamina. I’m not gluten-free myself, but often prefer to eat gluten-free grains and flours for their taste and nutrition. Also since there is genetically modified wheat on the market, it might be that folks are really intolerant of the petrochemicals used to grow common wheat, which contributes to health problems. A diet rich in gluten-free whole grains can enhance everyone’s health and vitality; expand your cooking repertoire and celebrate the earth’s bounty.
Some people think that gluten-free dishes don’t taste as good. What would you say in response?
When I teach, I introduce people to many tasty gluten-free grains like teff, amaranth, rice, and quinoa. My recipes are simple, and when you use fresh seasonal and organic ingredients, they’re going to taste great. It’s like any kind of cooking: you have to understand how to use herbs and spices to create tasty dishes. My daughters aren’t gluten free either, but they prefer the Cinnamon Banana Pancakes made with teff flour instead of wheat. This isn’t about depravation. I’m using real foods, not processed food. Gluten-free grains are full of life and flavor.
While reading through your cookbook, I was surprised at how many ingredients seemed new or unusual to me, which makes gluten-free cooking seem like a challenge. What advice can you give to people looking to start cooking gluten-free who might be scared by the ingredients?
My suggestion: stay out of the supermarket. For the more rare ingredients in the cookbook, there is a mail-order section in the back of “Gluten-Free Recipes for the Conscious Cook.” Also, my mother taught me to ask for what you want. Ask stores to stock the ingredients you want. Make the products available. Start the real food revolution.
I taught my sorghum salad (one of the lesser known grains) in a recent class. I cooked it like a Mediterranean couscous salad, and everyone was like, “Wow.” I’m introducing people to different textures, flavors, and the fun of eating really well. Yeah it’s challenging if you’re just thinking of the challah you normally eat every Friday night, but if you’re thinking of variety you’re really going to have fun and thrive.
In addition to writing cookbooks and catering, you also teach classes. Do you have any exciting classes coming up?
I’m teaching a “Thriving Gluten-Free” class at the Omega Institute in Rhinebeck, NY July 6-8. The class includes continuing education credits and I’ll be co-teaching with celiac expert, dietician and author, Melinda Dennis. In addition to culinary nutrition and hands-on cooking classes, I offer telephone consultations. I also have an online course, “Wraps and Rolls.”
What’s an ingredient you think everyone should have in his or her pantry? Why?
Flexibility. But aside from that, I think everyone should stock a variety of whole grains. At least four to six different whole grains and most whole grains are gluten-free.
Any last things you want our readers to know?
Whether you’re gluten free or not, including a wide variety of gluten-free grains in your diet is good for you and good for the planet. Ecologically, gluten-free grains could be part of the solution for our changing climate: some can grow in drier climates; others in flooded areas; some use less seed for higher yields and all offer great nutrition. Eating gluten-free isn’t just about personal health; it could be part of the solution for feeding the masses during climate change.
Quinoa and Shiitake Pilaf Serves 6 to 8
Leeks, celery, and mushrooms enliven this pilaf and give it a flavor reminiscent of a Thanksgiving stuffing. If you like, you can substitute other types of mushrooms for the shiitakes. White button mushrooms, criminis, or portobellos would all be great choices.
1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 1/2 cups chopped leeks (white and tender green parts)
2 cups chopped celery
1 1/2 cups stemmed and sliced shiitake mushrooms
1 3/4 cups quinoa, rinsed
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
3 1/2 cups boiling water
Heat the oil in a medium-size saucepan or skillet (one with a tight-fitting lid) over medium heat. Add the leeks, celery, and mushrooms and sauté, stirring continuously for about 5 minutes, until vegetables become fragrant and their colors brighten. Stir in the quinoa and salt. Lower the heat, then slowly pour in the water. Cover and simmer for about 15 minutes, until all of the water is absorbed.
Many of Leslie’s recipes can be adapted for Passover, but most of the gluten-free grains are considered kitnyot so those of Ashkenazic background may choose not to eat them.
Alyssa Berkowitz is a senior in the Joint Program between Columbia University and the Jewish Theological Seminary. She is currently the Food Programs Intern at Hazon.
If you’re adhering to a gluten-free diet because you have celiac disease or other health conditions that benefit from avoiding gluten, this is one cookbook you’ll want on your cookbook shelf. But be sure to take a look at it if you’re interested in exploring a variety of whole grains, too — regardless of what else you eat!
Leslie tells us all we need to know about this dietary choice, even if we’re new to the topic. She explains what gluten is, she looks at the health issues that prompt people to adopt a gluten-free diet, and she introduces us to ancient and exotic gluten-free grains: amaranth, buckwheat, corn, millet, oats, quinoa, rice, sorghum, teff, and wild rice. A chapter is devoted to basic grain cookery, including everything from cookware to modifications to change texture or enhance flavor (such as including seasonings and toasting grains before adding the cooking liquid).
The Bountiful Breakfast chapter includes directions for making nut and seed milks, smoothies and shakes, granola (Vanilla Hazelnut Granola, no less!), porridges, muffins, scrambled tofu, pancakes, and waffles. There’s even a breakfast soup!
You’ll find a handful of savory stews in the chapter on Main course sensations, along with loaves, pasta dishes, a quinoa casserole, and much more. You’ve come to the right book to dispel any lingering doubts about gluten-free recipes being boring. In this chapter alone you’ll find Shiitake and Kale Lasagna with Marinated Dried Tomatoes and Chevre as well as Red Lentil and Teff Loaf with Red Wine and Porcini Sauce.
There’s a chapter devoted to Sushi, and another on Savory Sauces and Tempting Toppings. For readers who want to experiment a bit without committing to an entire gluten-free meal, the Super Sides chapter is a great place to start. How about a Lemony Quinoa Salad with Toasted Sunflower Seeds or Spiced Yams with Pecans? Sweet indulgences include an array of cookies, puddings, pies, crisps, and bars. (I’ve put Mocha Coconut Rice Pudding and Cashew Butter Chocolate Chip Cookies on my dessert menus for next week!)
This unassuming paperback includes over 100 intriguing recipes, with straightforward directions that put most of them in the easy-to-prepare category. A glossary of ingredients and a section of resources are helpful, too.
Leslie encourages the reader to cook “like an artist designing a meal, composing with gluten-free whole grains, flours, and pastas complemented by a rainbow of local, seasonal fruits and vegetables.” To get you started right away, we’re happy to be able to include on our recipe site three recipes from Gluten-Free Recipes for the Conscious Cook for you to try. (You’ll also find some recipes from a couple of Leslie’s other cookbooks.) Let us know what you think!
Whole grains are one of nature’s gifts that have nurtured people all over the world for centuries. These powerhouses—loaded with vitamins, minerals, fiber, and antioxidants—offer energy, great taste, and worlds of healthy eating pleasure.
Kasha, amaranth, teff, bulgar, cous cous, quinoa, corn grits and rolled oats cook quickly: 5-15 minutes. Besides the standard boil and simmer, you can toast, marinate, bake, sprout, sauté, and even presoak grains to produce different textures and flavors. Kasha, quinoa, oats, and amaranth are complete proteins and gluten-free. Other gluten-free grains are corn, millet, wild rice, sorghum, teff, and numerous varieties of rice.
A fabulous variety of whole grains provide culinary excitement without hours of labor. You can cook grains alone and together with other grains, in infinite combination with spices, vegetables, nuts, and seeds. Once you know the proportion of liquid to grains you can make up your own combination. Sometimes it may require a little math because some grains require more cooking liquid than others. Don’t let the math stop you. Go a little wild and improvise. Add cooked grains to a salad, stir fry, soup, or garnish with fresh herbs or toasted seeds.
Organic and Gluten-Free Feta Cheese and Quinoa Salad
Some Grains need to be rinsed. Place a measured amount in a pot, or large bowl. Cover grains with three to four inches of water. Swirl grains with a chopstick or wooden spoon. Pour off any floating debris, grain hulls, twigs, etc. Repeat until the water is clear. Some grains such as barley, oats, and millet are dustier than others and require a longer rinsing period. Spelt, and kamut are fairly clean and rinse quickly. Don’t bother rinsing teff. It is too tiny, and has already been cleaned before packaging. I also never rinse kasha (buckwheat groats) or flaked or cracked grains like rolled oats, spelt flakes, kamut flakes, corn grits, bulgar wheat, or cous cous. Do rinse red, tan and black varieties of quinoa unless the package says pre-rinsed.
Special Ways of Cooking Grains
1- Dry roast rinsed grains before cooking them
* Alone or with:
* Spices
* Vegetables and Spices
* Nuts and/or Seeds
To make them fluffy, light, individual, dry and nutty flavored.
2- Sauté rinsed, uncooked grains
* Alone or with:
* Vegetables
* Spices and Herbs
To make them moist, tender, individual, rich and flavorful.
Use sesame, extra virgin olive, extra virgin coconut oils, butter and ghee
3- Soak rinsed grains in their cooking liquid overnight or 6-8 hours before cooking them. This makes them easier to digest and softer.
Want to be deeply nourished? Eat whole grains! Loaded with B vitamins, vitamin E, magnesium, iron, fiber, and valuable antioxidants not found in fruits and vegetables, whole grains give you tasty protection against cancer, stroke, heart disease, diabetes, and obesity. In fact, I actually lost weight without trying by eating lots of gluten-free grains and gluten-free pastries.
Whole grains are important to everyone’s diet-and Leslie can show you how to mix and match whole grains with local, seasonal and organic produce for infinite easy to prepare gourmet meals.
Does an author who writes a gluten-free cookbook have to be someone suffering from celiac disease or who has a gluten intolerance? In the case of Leslie Cerier, the answer is a loud “No!”
Cerier, author of gluten-free recipes for the conscious cook, admits she does not follow a gluten-free diet herself, but says, “Over twenty years ago, when I heard that teff, quinoa, and brown rice, to name just a few gluten-free grains, were highly nutritious, I was eager to try them, and I’ve never looked back.”
As Cerier explains, having a variety of grains in the diet can be beneficial to health. There are health advocates who believe that some wheat intolerances arise from eating too much of that grain.
The opening chapter provides an introduction to the gluten-free grains with sections on amaranth, buckwheat, corn, millet, oats, quinoa, rice, sorghum, teff, and wild rice. Also included here are coconut flour and oil as well as nut and seed meals and butters.
After reading about, and choosing the safe grains, the home cook can find detailed instructions on how to prepare them, especially with the chart that indicates the amount of water and cooking time. Instructions are provided for toasting, sautéing, soaking, and baking. Those with rice cookers, pressure cookers, and even solar cookers receive special tips here.
Beginning with Chapter 3, “bountiful breakfast,” Cerier presents over 100 recipes that can be enjoyed by anyone wanting to eat gluten-free. To start the day, there’s Teff Porridge with Cinnamon and Dates, Banana-Cranberry Smoothie, or Oat and Raisin Muffins, Unfortunately, for vegans 40% of the recipes in this chapter have eggs. These include muffins, pancakes, and waffles.
Blueberry Pancakes From Gluten-Free Recipes Conscious Cook
“main course sensations” offers a variety of mouthwatering vegan creations that include Soba with Tempeh and Broccoli in Coconut Sauce, Teff Loaf with Red Peppers and African Spices, Sweet Potato and Black Bean Chili with Tomatillos, and South American Quinoa Stew.
Those desiring to entertain friends can delve into the chapter labeled “sushi party.” Beginning with the preparation of three possible types of rice (short grain brown, black forbidden, or Bhutanese red), the author provides numerous suggestions for inclusion in sushi rolls. Some enticements are Nori Rolls with Gingered Tofu, Gingered Tempeh and Shiitakes, and Naturally Fermented Pickled Vegetables. All are vegan.
Nori Rolls
One of the largest sections of the book is “super sides” that features more than two-dozen all-vegan recipes. Beginning with the Aztec Two-Step, this chapter includes exotic dishes like Madagascar Pink Rice with Cashews and Scallions, Sorghum with Summer Squash and Red Bell Peppers, Kasha Varnishkes, and Basmati Soup with Indian Spices.
“savory sauces and tempting toppings” provides suggestions for salad dressings, sauces, and pestos. This chapter suggests some common varieties of gluten-free pastas as well as devoting a full page to Great Garnishes. Topping off the chapter is a recipe for Fried Dulse, a sea vegetable.
And then there’s dessert, or as labeled by Cerier, “sweet indulgences.” The author says there’s no need to give up desserts, especially baked items, when following a gluten-free diet. Featured are cookies, pies, cakes, crisps, and pudding. Some of the baked items include eggs or honey.
Sidebars, charts, and shaded gray boxes for recipe “Variations ” are distinguishing design features of the book. Recipes are presented in a unique style with ingredients and instructions shown side by side. The volume concludes with a “glossary of ingredients” and “resources.”
For people who strive for ultimate gluten-free safety, the best option is to prepare food themselves. Those who want to eliminate gluten from their lives and are vegetarian will find gluten-free recipes for the conscious cook an excellent basic introduction to this style of cooking. Leslie Cerier presents a variety of creative recipes to introduce readers to a whole variety of grains other than wheat, rye, and barley. Although the recipes use some grains unfamiliar to many, these gluten-free substitutes appear in tasty and exotic creations that are quite easy to prepare. One disappointment was that more vegan variations are not offered in the breakfast and dessert recipe sections.
Now that the weather here in New England is cooling off, lots of folks are starting to cook and bake. Good news, there are lots of fun, easy and quick recipes in Gluten-Free Recipes for the Conscious Cook http://lesliecerier.com/cookbooks-gluten-free.html and many reviewers and foodies are loving this cookbook.
Here are some recent links which also offer recipes complete with photos of my latest cookbook.
The Savvy Vegetarian loved the “Millet and Carrots”served with the “Mushroom Sauce” from Gluten-Free Recipes for the Conscious Cook. She says that Leslie Cerier’s gem of a cookbook is a collection of easy, quick and simple gluten free recipes. But she has packed a whole lot more than gluten free cooking into 223 pages.” Here is the link to read the full review:http://savvyvegetarian.com/articles/gluten-free-recipes-review.php
Then “Flora’s Kitchen, An Adventure in Gluten-Free Eating”, also blogged about my cookbook on Oct 10th. She said that “Gluten-Free Recipes for the Conscious Cook: A Seasonal, Vegetarian Cookbook by Leslie Cerier is just the book for me. It is a seasonal, gluten-free, vegetarian cookbook full of healthy, easy, family-friendly recipes. You might be asking yourself why I would ever cook out of a vegetarian cookbook, after all if you have read my blog you know we eat meat at our house. Honestly, we eat way too much meat, and getting more fruits, vegetables, and whole grains in our diets is really critical….” Here is the link to read the complete review:
Veggielady4life also reviewed my cookbook and she said, “ I have to say this book is an excellent resource for both gluten-free as well as non-gluten-free cooks. It has a wonderful introductory section that discusses many of the most common gluten-free grains, many of which you probably use every day (without even realizing they are gluten-free!). Corn, millet, oats, quinoa, and rice are just a few examples. She discusses the origin of these grains, cooking methods, and recipe ideas for each one. I found this section extremely interesting, and I learned a good bit about each grain….” Here is the link to read the whole review along with photograph and recipe of the ”Tomato Lentil Stew with Kale” from Gluten-Free Recipes for the Conscious Cook: http://veggielady4life.com/2010/10/08/tomato-lentil-stew-with-kale/
Well, all this talk about cooking and eating is making me hungry… so I am going to cook. Hope you have a great time feasting on your local harvest, too!
For more great recipes, and for upcoming cooking classes, please go to my website:
Do it like the Clintons. Chelsea Clinton had a gluten-free wedding cake. Why gluten-free? Because millions of people are over eating gluten (wheat, rye and barley) causing migraines, indigestion, fatigue, depression among other chronic ailments. Not only people with gluten-intolerances will benefit from diversifying their diet and including a new variety of gluten-free grains. They are nutritious, delicious and fun to cook with. In fact, I am not gluten intolerant but for over twenty years have been enjoying gluten-free cooking and baking because it has given my family and me increased energy, stamina and variety in our daily meals.
Within my experimentation with gluten-free grains, I ended up creating a wealth of new combinations but I never intended to write a book about gluten-free grains. It wasn’t until I learned about all the nutritional value of my style of cooking that I realized I had something to offer on cooking for health and vitality that everyone can enjoy, gluten-intolerant or not. Gluten-free Recipes for the Conscious Cook, A Seasonal Vegetarian Cookbook, includes recipes that I created because they are delicious. After eating and serving them for years, I learned that there were many people searching for alternatives to gluten (wheat, rye and barley). The search is up. I wrote a book that features ten gluten-free grains and flours. Using corn, millet, oats, teff, rice, sorghum, buckwheat, amaranth, quinoa along with nut, seed and coconut flour, you’ll never feel deprived. With recipes like Hazelnut Brownies with Chocolate Chips, Lemon Poppy Seed Cake, Banana Cinnamon Pancakes, Corn Muffins, quinoa casseroles, lasagnas, your cooking repertoire will explode and your body will thank you for it.
Eating a gluten-free diet is good for you and the planet. The majority of the wheat grown is genetically modified and heavily sprayed with toxic pesticides that are hard for humans to digest. Our diets have been built around these wheat varieties that yield the highest quantities instead of the highest nutritional content. This book celebrates the earth’s bounty in the kitchen. Being adaptive, creative and conscientious is part of our recipe for reducing our carbon footprint.
You don’t have to be the Clintons to enjoy gluten-free deserts. Here is a hazelnut- chocolate chip brownie that will become one of your favorite recipes whether you’re gluten-free or not:
Hazelnut Brownies with Chocolate Chips
Serves 6 to 8
This is the best brownie recipe I know of—gluten free or otherwise. Enjoy them warm out of the oven. Or, in the unlikely event that you have leftovers, rest assured that they get better every day.
2 eggs
1 cup apple or pear juice
1/4 cup melted extra-virgin coconut oil or butter
1/2 cup maple syrup
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3/4 cup finely ground raw hazelnuts (skins on) or hazelnut flour (see page 00)
1/2 cup cocoa powder
1/3 cup brown rice flour
1/4 cup coconut flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
3/4 cup dark chocolate chips
• Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Lightly oil a 9-inch round pan or a standard loaf pan.
• Whisk the eggs in a large bowl. Add all of the remaining ingredients, holding back 1/4 cup of chocolate chips, and stir until thoroughly combined. Pour the batter into the prepared pan, scraping the bowl to get every last speck of chocolaty goodness. Decorate the top with the remaining chocolate chips.
• Bake for about 30 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean (or with only melted chocolate on it). Cool for at least 30 minutes before slicing and eating—if you can wait that long!
Madagascar Pink Rice with Cashews and Scallions, a quick and delicious recipe from my cookbook, Gluten-Free Recipes for the Conscious Cook, is featured in an article about the ecological benefits for growing rice with less water, which is posted at the end of this blog post. I hope you will enjoy reading it.
Madagascar Pink Rice with Cashews and Scallions
Here’s a great side dish scented with cumin and ginger. Serve with a bean salad for a great summer meal.
Heat the ghee and cumin seeds in a 4 quart stock pot over medium heat. Fry for 1-2 minutes until they smell fragrant. Add and sauté the rice and cashews for two minutes to coat and flavor the rice and cashews.
Turn off the heat and add boiling water, grated ginger and sea salt. Resume heat. Cover and simmer 15-20 minutes or until water is absorbed.
by Leslie Cerier is just the book for me. It is a seasonal, gluten-free, vegetarian cookbook full of healthy, easy, family-friendly recipes. You might be asking yourself why I would ever cook out of a vegetarian cookbook, after all if you have read my blog you know we eat meat at our house. Honestly, we eat way too much meat, and getting more fruits, vegetables, and whole grains in our diets is really critical….” Here is the link to read the complete review:
