Teff, peanut butter, and cookies, oh my! Teff adds a subtle hazelnut/chocolate flavor to these peanut butter cookies, and just so happens to be gluten free and high in dietary fiber, protein, iron, and calcium. With this easy six ingredient recipe starring the super nutritious teff flour, you can almost convince yourself that you are eating these cookies for health, and not pleasure! Almost…
We found this recipe conveniently located on the back of our bag of teff flour from Bob’s Red Mill. It is by Leslie Cerier, who just so happens to be the author of one of our favorite cookbooks: Going Wild in the Kitchen.
1 1/2 cups Teff Flour 1/2 tsp sea salt 1/2 cup maple syrup 1/2 cup canola oil 1 tsp vanilla 1 cup peanut butter
Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Combine the dry ingredients together in a big bowl. In your favorite food processor blend the maple syrup, canola oil, vanilla, and peanut butter well. Mix the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients, incorporating well. Form little balls of dough onto an ungreased cookie sheat. To get that classic criss-cross look that peanut butter cookies are famous for, get your criss-cross action going with a fork. Bake for about thirteen to fifteen minutes. Allow them to cool all of the way, and then gobble them up!
Leslie Cerier, who calls herself “The Organic Gourmet,” combines a holistic lifestyle with hands-on vegetarian cooking for health and vitality, as well as writing cookbooks and articles focusing on eating local, seasonal, organic foods. As Leslie will tell you, gluten-free cooking is not just for celiacs or people with wheat-allergies, but can inspire beneficial mood and health changes.
I recently had the opportunity to chat with Leslie about her newest cookbook, “Gluten-Free Recipes for the Conscious Cook” and the benefits of a gluten-free diet, and the importance of eating sustainably for both the mind and body.
Alyssa Berkowitz: Did you always want to be a chef? Any stories of cooking as a child?
Leslie Cerier: I didn’t plan to be a chef. I always loved to cook. In high school I asked my grandmother Ethel how to make her strudel dough. She said, “You take some flour and water and it should look like this.” And I said, “Grandma, how much?” She showed me again and repeated that you take some flour and water and it should look like this. She knew what texture she was looking for. Now when I teach hands-on cooking classes, I encourage people to follow their senses: taste, touch, smell, see, listen, and make it a total sensory experience.
How do you derive influences for your recipes? How does your Jewish background shape your recipes?
I get my inspiration from the local, organic harvest: the fruits, vegetables and herbs of the season; then mix and match a variety of whole foods: grains, beans, grass raised dairy and eggs, nuts and seeds to create globally inspired meals. My Jewish roots inspire me to create healthy twists on classic recipes. For example in my “Kasha Varnishkes” recipe in “Gluten-Free Recipes for the Conscious Cook,” I swapped Quinoa Corn spiral pasta for the classic white wheat bowties; also added sunflower seeds and even collard greens for a colorful and nutrient dense gourmet dish. Top it off with pesto for a yummy meal.
My Jewish influences are more about how to be creative and think out of the box. I guess thinking out of the box is a Jewish thing.
How do you see the relationship between a holistic lifestyle and the eating of whole grains and organic food?
I see it all as one really. I sleep on organic sateen sheets, use natural and organic soaps and cleaning products. I don’t use a microwave. I prefer to cook in cast iron, stainless steel, lead-free enamel and glass. I tune into the natural rhythms and the changing seasons. In cold weather, I cook long simmering soups and bake; in hot weather I make quick sautés and marinated salads I look at the interconnectedness of everything. Years ago, I gave up a promising career as a photographer to avoid toxic, chemicals in the dark room. I now print my photos on 100% cotton canvas. Even my artwork is about sustainability. My latest series, “Photographing the Jewels in the Water” is about sunlight on shallow streams that create natural jewel like patterns, like impressionistic paintings. I’m trying to connect all the dots, inside and out with my deep love of nature.
For some, gluten-free might seem like the next big health-fad. Why do you think eating a gluten-free diet should be something everyone is doing?
Gluten-free whole grains have been around for centuries — they’re not fad foods. They are delicious, loaded with vitamins and minerals, great for energy and stamina. I’m not gluten-free myself, but often prefer to eat gluten-free grains and flours for their taste and nutrition. Also since there is genetically modified wheat on the market, it might be that folks are really intolerant of the petrochemicals used to grow common wheat, which contributes to health problems. A diet rich in gluten-free whole grains can enhance everyone’s health and vitality; expand your cooking repertoire and celebrate the earth’s bounty.
Some people think that gluten-free dishes don’t taste as good. What would you say in response?
When I teach, I introduce people to many tasty gluten-free grains like teff, amaranth, rice, and quinoa. My recipes are simple, and when you use fresh seasonal and organic ingredients, they’re going to taste great. It’s like any kind of cooking: you have to understand how to use herbs and spices to create tasty dishes. My daughters aren’t gluten free either, but they prefer the Cinnamon Banana Pancakes made with teff flour instead of wheat. This isn’t about depravation. I’m using real foods, not processed food. Gluten-free grains are full of life and flavor.
While reading through your cookbook, I was surprised at how many ingredients seemed new or unusual to me, which makes gluten-free cooking seem like a challenge. What advice can you give to people looking to start cooking gluten-free who might be scared by the ingredients?
My suggestion: stay out of the supermarket. For the more rare ingredients in the cookbook, there is a mail-order section in the back of “Gluten-Free Recipes for the Conscious Cook.” Also, my mother taught me to ask for what you want. Ask stores to stock the ingredients you want. Make the products available. Start the real food revolution.
I taught my sorghum salad (one of the lesser known grains) in a recent class. I cooked it like a Mediterranean couscous salad, and everyone was like, “Wow.” I’m introducing people to different textures, flavors, and the fun of eating really well. Yeah it’s challenging if you’re just thinking of the challah you normally eat every Friday night, but if you’re thinking of variety you’re really going to have fun and thrive.
In addition to writing cookbooks and catering, you also teach classes. Do you have any exciting classes coming up?
I’m teaching a “Thriving Gluten-Free” class at the Omega Institute in Rhinebeck, NY July 6-8. The class includes continuing education credits and I’ll be co-teaching with celiac expert, dietician and author, Melinda Dennis. In addition to culinary nutrition and hands-on cooking classes, I offer telephone consultations. I also have an online course, “Wraps and Rolls.”
What’s an ingredient you think everyone should have in his or her pantry? Why?
Flexibility. But aside from that, I think everyone should stock a variety of whole grains. At least four to six different whole grains and most whole grains are gluten-free.
Any last things you want our readers to know?
Whether you’re gluten free or not, including a wide variety of gluten-free grains in your diet is good for you and good for the planet. Ecologically, gluten-free grains could be part of the solution for our changing climate: some can grow in drier climates; others in flooded areas; some use less seed for higher yields and all offer great nutrition. Eating gluten-free isn’t just about personal health; it could be part of the solution for feeding the masses during climate change.
Quinoa and Shiitake Pilaf Serves 6 to 8
Leeks, celery, and mushrooms enliven this pilaf and give it a flavor reminiscent of a Thanksgiving stuffing. If you like, you can substitute other types of mushrooms for the shiitakes. White button mushrooms, criminis, or portobellos would all be great choices.
1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 1/2 cups chopped leeks (white and tender green parts)
2 cups chopped celery
1 1/2 cups stemmed and sliced shiitake mushrooms
1 3/4 cups quinoa, rinsed
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
3 1/2 cups boiling water
Heat the oil in a medium-size saucepan or skillet (one with a tight-fitting lid) over medium heat. Add the leeks, celery, and mushrooms and sauté, stirring continuously for about 5 minutes, until vegetables become fragrant and their colors brighten. Stir in the quinoa and salt. Lower the heat, then slowly pour in the water. Cover and simmer for about 15 minutes, until all of the water is absorbed.
Many of Leslie’s recipes can be adapted for Passover, but most of the gluten-free grains are considered kitnyot so those of Ashkenazic background may choose not to eat them.
Alyssa Berkowitz is a senior in the Joint Program between Columbia University and the Jewish Theological Seminary. She is currently the Food Programs Intern at Hazon.
If you’re adhering to a gluten-free diet because you have celiac disease or other health conditions that benefit from avoiding gluten, this is one cookbook you’ll want on your cookbook shelf. But be sure to take a look at it if you’re interested in exploring a variety of whole grains, too — regardless of what else you eat!
Leslie tells us all we need to know about this dietary choice, even if we’re new to the topic. She explains what gluten is, she looks at the health issues that prompt people to adopt a gluten-free diet, and she introduces us to ancient and exotic gluten-free grains: amaranth, buckwheat, corn, millet, oats, quinoa, rice, sorghum, teff, and wild rice. A chapter is devoted to basic grain cookery, including everything from cookware to modifications to change texture or enhance flavor (such as including seasonings and toasting grains before adding the cooking liquid).
The Bountiful Breakfast chapter includes directions for making nut and seed milks, smoothies and shakes, granola (Vanilla Hazelnut Granola, no less!), porridges, muffins, scrambled tofu, pancakes, and waffles. There’s even a breakfast soup!
You’ll find a handful of savory stews in the chapter on Main course sensations, along with loaves, pasta dishes, a quinoa casserole, and much more. You’ve come to the right book to dispel any lingering doubts about gluten-free recipes being boring. In this chapter alone you’ll find Shiitake and Kale Lasagna with Marinated Dried Tomatoes and Chevre as well as Red Lentil and Teff Loaf with Red Wine and Porcini Sauce.
There’s a chapter devoted to Sushi, and another on Savory Sauces and Tempting Toppings. For readers who want to experiment a bit without committing to an entire gluten-free meal, the Super Sides chapter is a great place to start. How about a Lemony Quinoa Salad with Toasted Sunflower Seeds or Spiced Yams with Pecans? Sweet indulgences include an array of cookies, puddings, pies, crisps, and bars. (I’ve put Mocha Coconut Rice Pudding and Cashew Butter Chocolate Chip Cookies on my dessert menus for next week!)
This unassuming paperback includes over 100 intriguing recipes, with straightforward directions that put most of them in the easy-to-prepare category. A glossary of ingredients and a section of resources are helpful, too.
Leslie encourages the reader to cook “like an artist designing a meal, composing with gluten-free whole grains, flours, and pastas complemented by a rainbow of local, seasonal fruits and vegetables.” To get you started right away, we’re happy to be able to include on our recipe site three recipes from Gluten-Free Recipes for the Conscious Cook for you to try. (You’ll also find some recipes from a couple of Leslie’s other cookbooks.) Let us know what you think!
Whole grains are one of nature’s gifts that have nurtured people all over the world for centuries. These powerhouses—loaded with vitamins, minerals, fiber, and antioxidants—offer energy, great taste, and worlds of healthy eating pleasure.
Kasha, amaranth, teff, bulgar, cous cous, quinoa, corn grits and rolled oats cook quickly: 5-15 minutes. Besides the standard boil and simmer, you can toast, marinate, bake, sprout, sauté, and even presoak grains to produce different textures and flavors. Kasha, quinoa, oats, and amaranth are complete proteins and gluten-free. Other gluten-free grains are corn, millet, wild rice, sorghum, teff, and numerous varieties of rice.
A fabulous variety of whole grains provide culinary excitement without hours of labor. You can cook grains alone and together with other grains, in infinite combination with spices, vegetables, nuts, and seeds. Once you know the proportion of liquid to grains you can make up your own combination. Sometimes it may require a little math because some grains require more cooking liquid than others. Don’t let the math stop you. Go a little wild and improvise. Add cooked grains to a salad, stir fry, soup, or garnish with fresh herbs or toasted seeds.
Organic and Gluten-Free Feta Cheese and Quinoa Salad
Some Grains need to be rinsed. Place a measured amount in a pot, or large bowl. Cover grains with three to four inches of water. Swirl grains with a chopstick or wooden spoon. Pour off any floating debris, grain hulls, twigs, etc. Repeat until the water is clear. Some grains such as barley, oats, and millet are dustier than others and require a longer rinsing period. Spelt, and kamut are fairly clean and rinse quickly. Don’t bother rinsing teff. It is too tiny, and has already been cleaned before packaging. I also never rinse kasha (buckwheat groats) or flaked or cracked grains like rolled oats, spelt flakes, kamut flakes, corn grits, bulgar wheat, or cous cous. Do rinse red, tan and black varieties of quinoa unless the package says pre-rinsed.
Special Ways of Cooking Grains
1- Dry roast rinsed grains before cooking them
* Alone or with:
* Spices
* Vegetables and Spices
* Nuts and/or Seeds
To make them fluffy, light, individual, dry and nutty flavored.
2- Sauté rinsed, uncooked grains
* Alone or with:
* Vegetables
* Spices and Herbs
To make them moist, tender, individual, rich and flavorful.
Use sesame, extra virgin olive, extra virgin coconut oils, butter and ghee
3- Soak rinsed grains in their cooking liquid overnight or 6-8 hours before cooking them. This makes them easier to digest and softer.
Want to be deeply nourished? Eat whole grains! Loaded with B vitamins, vitamin E, magnesium, iron, fiber, and valuable antioxidants not found in fruits and vegetables, whole grains give you tasty protection against cancer, stroke, heart disease, diabetes, and obesity. In fact, I actually lost weight without trying by eating lots of gluten-free grains and gluten-free pastries.
Whole grains are important to everyone’s diet-and Leslie can show you how to mix and match whole grains with local, seasonal and organic produce for infinite easy to prepare gourmet meals.
Delicious Berry and Apple Pie with Maple Teff Pie Crust
You can make delicious pies with local, seasonal and organic fruits all year long. Simply mix and match and swap as you adapt the seasons. You can freeze the local berries in summer. Then add them to the fall apples and pears as I have done here. Even making a gluten-free pie crust is easy with teff flour. No need to roll or refrigerate the dough. Simply mix it up and press it in.
Have fun and eat well.
Leslie’s Gluten-Free Pie Crust
2 cups teff flour
1/2 cup melted Organic extra-virgin coconut oil or pasture raised Organic butter
Preheat oven to 375ºF. Lightly oil a 9-inch pie pan.
To make the crust, combine the teff flour, oil, maple syrup, and salt in a medium-size bowl and stir until well combined. Reserve 1/2 cup of the mixture to use as a crumb topping.
Transfer the dough to the prepared pie pan and use your fingers to press it out in an even layer over the bottom and sides of the pan. Poke a few holes in the dough with a fork. Bake for about 10 minutes, until it loses it shine.
Yams and collards combine with teff, herbs, and spices, creating a beautiful mosaic pattern in this robust grain loaf. Serve as a side dish or as a vegetarian main dish.
Makes: 8 slices Serving size: 1 slice
3 cups water
3 1/2 cups thinly sliced yams
1 cup teff
1/2 teaspoon sea salt, or to taste
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 1/2 cups coarsely chopped leeks
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
2 cups coarsely chopped collard greens
2 cups coarsely chopped basil
1/2 cup coarsely chopped cilantro
1. Bring the water, yams, teff, and salt to boil in a 4-quart stockpot. Reduce the heat to low and simmer covered for 20 minutes.
2. While the teff mixture simmers, heat a medium-sized skillet over medium heat. Add the oil, leeks, fennel, and cumin, and satué 2 to 3 minutes or until fragrant. Stir in the collard greens and sauté about 3 minutes, or until bright green.
3. Transfer the collard mixture to the teff mixture, cover, and continue to simmer another few minutes, or until all of the liquid is absorbed.
4. Turn off the heat and stir the basil and cilantro into mixture. Adjust the seasonings, if desired.
5. Spoon the mixture into an 8-inch unoiled loaf pan, and let stand about 30 minutes, or until firm.
Does an author who writes a gluten-free cookbook have to be someone suffering from celiac disease or who has a gluten intolerance? In the case of Leslie Cerier, the answer is a loud “No!”
Cerier, author of gluten-free recipes for the conscious cook, admits she does not follow a gluten-free diet herself, but says, “Over twenty years ago, when I heard that teff, quinoa, and brown rice, to name just a few gluten-free grains, were highly nutritious, I was eager to try them, and I’ve never looked back.”
As Cerier explains, having a variety of grains in the diet can be beneficial to health. There are health advocates who believe that some wheat intolerances arise from eating too much of that grain.
The opening chapter provides an introduction to the gluten-free grains with sections on amaranth, buckwheat, corn, millet, oats, quinoa, rice, sorghum, teff, and wild rice. Also included here are coconut flour and oil as well as nut and seed meals and butters.
After reading about, and choosing the safe grains, the home cook can find detailed instructions on how to prepare them, especially with the chart that indicates the amount of water and cooking time. Instructions are provided for toasting, sautéing, soaking, and baking. Those with rice cookers, pressure cookers, and even solar cookers receive special tips here.
Beginning with Chapter 3, “bountiful breakfast,” Cerier presents over 100 recipes that can be enjoyed by anyone wanting to eat gluten-free. To start the day, there’s Teff Porridge with Cinnamon and Dates, Banana-Cranberry Smoothie, or Oat and Raisin Muffins, Unfortunately, for vegans 40% of the recipes in this chapter have eggs. These include muffins, pancakes, and waffles.
Blueberry Pancakes From Gluten-Free Recipes Conscious Cook
“main course sensations” offers a variety of mouthwatering vegan creations that include Soba with Tempeh and Broccoli in Coconut Sauce, Teff Loaf with Red Peppers and African Spices, Sweet Potato and Black Bean Chili with Tomatillos, and South American Quinoa Stew.
Those desiring to entertain friends can delve into the chapter labeled “sushi party.” Beginning with the preparation of three possible types of rice (short grain brown, black forbidden, or Bhutanese red), the author provides numerous suggestions for inclusion in sushi rolls. Some enticements are Nori Rolls with Gingered Tofu, Gingered Tempeh and Shiitakes, and Naturally Fermented Pickled Vegetables. All are vegan.
Nori Rolls
One of the largest sections of the book is “super sides” that features more than two-dozen all-vegan recipes. Beginning with the Aztec Two-Step, this chapter includes exotic dishes like Madagascar Pink Rice with Cashews and Scallions, Sorghum with Summer Squash and Red Bell Peppers, Kasha Varnishkes, and Basmati Soup with Indian Spices.
“savory sauces and tempting toppings” provides suggestions for salad dressings, sauces, and pestos. This chapter suggests some common varieties of gluten-free pastas as well as devoting a full page to Great Garnishes. Topping off the chapter is a recipe for Fried Dulse, a sea vegetable.
And then there’s dessert, or as labeled by Cerier, “sweet indulgences.” The author says there’s no need to give up desserts, especially baked items, when following a gluten-free diet. Featured are cookies, pies, cakes, crisps, and pudding. Some of the baked items include eggs or honey.
Sidebars, charts, and shaded gray boxes for recipe “Variations ” are distinguishing design features of the book. Recipes are presented in a unique style with ingredients and instructions shown side by side. The volume concludes with a “glossary of ingredients” and “resources.”
For people who strive for ultimate gluten-free safety, the best option is to prepare food themselves. Those who want to eliminate gluten from their lives and are vegetarian will find gluten-free recipes for the conscious cook an excellent basic introduction to this style of cooking. Leslie Cerier presents a variety of creative recipes to introduce readers to a whole variety of grains other than wheat, rye, and barley. Although the recipes use some grains unfamiliar to many, these gluten-free substitutes appear in tasty and exotic creations that are quite easy to prepare. One disappointment was that more vegan variations are not offered in the breakfast and dessert recipe sections.
These waffles are delicious with or without a topping. There’s enough maple syrup in the batter that I never feel a need to pour more on top.
Teff Waffles from Leslie Cerier's cookbook, Gluten-Free Recipes for the Conscious Cook
4 eggs
3/4 cup apple juice or cider
3 Tbsp extra-virgin coconut oil or butter
3 Tbsp maple syrup
1 Tbsp vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups teff flour
1 Tbsp baking powder
1/2 tsp sea salt
1. Preheat the waffle iron
2. Whisk the eggs in a large bowl. Stir in the juice, oil, maple syrup and vanilla. Add the flour, baking powder, and salt and stir until well combined.
3. Brush both the top and bottom surface of the waffle iron with oil, then ladle in enough batter to cover the bottom surface of the iron. Cook until the steaming stops or the waffle is golden brown.
4. Serve immediately, or keep the cooked waffles in a warm oven until you’re ready to serve.
This recipe will also be included when I teach Great Grains in the Morning, Festive Holiday Brunches : Pancakes, Waffles, Fruit Sauces and Porridges at the Open Center in New York City on Dec 17th. Please come and participate in this fun and delicious Hands-on Vegetarian Cooking Class. For more information on my cooking classes and to register: please go to http://lesliecerier.com/blog/class-schedule/
Do it like the Clintons. Chelsea Clinton had a gluten-free wedding cake. Why gluten-free? Because millions of people are over eating gluten (wheat, rye and barley) causing migraines, indigestion, fatigue, depression among other chronic ailments. Not only people with gluten-intolerances will benefit from diversifying their diet and including a new variety of gluten-free grains. They are nutritious, delicious and fun to cook with. In fact, I am not gluten intolerant but for over twenty years have been enjoying gluten-free cooking and baking because it has given my family and me increased energy, stamina and variety in our daily meals.
Within my experimentation with gluten-free grains, I ended up creating a wealth of new combinations but I never intended to write a book about gluten-free grains. It wasn’t until I learned about all the nutritional value of my style of cooking that I realized I had something to offer on cooking for health and vitality that everyone can enjoy, gluten-intolerant or not. Gluten-free Recipes for the Conscious Cook, A Seasonal Vegetarian Cookbook, includes recipes that I created because they are delicious. After eating and serving them for years, I learned that there were many people searching for alternatives to gluten (wheat, rye and barley). The search is up. I wrote a book that features ten gluten-free grains and flours. Using corn, millet, oats, teff, rice, sorghum, buckwheat, amaranth, quinoa along with nut, seed and coconut flour, you’ll never feel deprived. With recipes like Hazelnut Brownies with Chocolate Chips, Lemon Poppy Seed Cake, Banana Cinnamon Pancakes, Corn Muffins, quinoa casseroles, lasagnas, your cooking repertoire will explode and your body will thank you for it.
Eating a gluten-free diet is good for you and the planet. The majority of the wheat grown is genetically modified and heavily sprayed with toxic pesticides that are hard for humans to digest. Our diets have been built around these wheat varieties that yield the highest quantities instead of the highest nutritional content. This book celebrates the earth’s bounty in the kitchen. Being adaptive, creative and conscientious is part of our recipe for reducing our carbon footprint.
You don’t have to be the Clintons to enjoy gluten-free deserts. Here is a hazelnut- chocolate chip brownie that will become one of your favorite recipes whether you’re gluten-free or not:
Hazelnut Brownies with Chocolate Chips
Serves 6 to 8
This is the best brownie recipe I know of—gluten free or otherwise. Enjoy them warm out of the oven. Or, in the unlikely event that you have leftovers, rest assured that they get better every day.
2 eggs
1 cup apple or pear juice
1/4 cup melted extra-virgin coconut oil or butter
1/2 cup maple syrup
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3/4 cup finely ground raw hazelnuts (skins on) or hazelnut flour (see page 00)
1/2 cup cocoa powder
1/3 cup brown rice flour
1/4 cup coconut flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
3/4 cup dark chocolate chips
• Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Lightly oil a 9-inch round pan or a standard loaf pan.
• Whisk the eggs in a large bowl. Add all of the remaining ingredients, holding back 1/4 cup of chocolate chips, and stir until thoroughly combined. Pour the batter into the prepared pan, scraping the bowl to get every last speck of chocolaty goodness. Decorate the top with the remaining chocolate chips.
• Bake for about 30 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean (or with only melted chocolate on it). Cool for at least 30 minutes before slicing and eating—if you can wait that long!
“Leslie Cerier, author and food industry consultant, also pointed out these ancient grains are also generally organic and GMO-free.”
Read all about ancient grains:
ANCIENT GRAINS
Full Circle
What’s old is new again as artisan bakers and consumers of gluten-free and wellness foods find modern uses for nutrient-packed ancient grains.
BY JENNIFER BARNETT FOX
As consumers grow more versed in the language of whole grains, ancient grains are shaping up as the newest grain frontier. Ancient grains are finding new roles among consumers looking to add variety to their whole-grain consumption or supplement nutrition in gluten-free foods.
But what’s an ancient grain? While no offi cial categorization exists, ancient grains generally include amaranth, teff, quinoa, millet, buckwheat, Kamut and sorghum — all part of the whole-grain family.
Cynthia Harriman of the Whole Grains Council (WGC) joked that ancient grains are, “all the grains that have been so unpopular that no one has bred any new versions over the eons.” In a more serious manner, Ms. Harriman, director of food and nutrition strategies for WGC said ancient grains could be defined as, “all grains that are so marginal they’re not included in the US Department of Agriculture consumption statistics, which would mean anything other than wheat, rye, corn, oats and barley.” WGC’s Web site highlights a new whole grain each month.
For the past two decades, celiac home bakers and gluten-free cookbook authors have used the glutenfree ancient grains to add nutrition and texture to their foods. More recently, restaurateurs and adventurous foodies have embraced ancient grains as replacements for traditional rice and pasta side dishes. But familiarity with the unique attributes of ancient grains has been tenuous and interest in the grains lukewarm. That humdrum opinion is waning with predictions that ancient grains could be the “next big thing.” FIT THE PROFILE. Whole grain, ethnically exotic and nutrient-rich, ancient grains hit all the current food trends, and mainstream consumers are taking notice. Ms. Harriman remarked that the fact consumers are asking for quinoa and other ancient grains by name shows they’re on the consumer radar.
WGC member ConAgra Mills is working to revitalize ancient grains for mainstream manufacturers and artisan consumers with its Ancient Grain flour blends. The company offers amaranth, millet, quinoa, sorghum and teff in gluten-free single-grain flours, standardized or customized multigrain blends or coarse grain and seed inclusions. The company also offers Eagle Mills gluten-free allpurpose multigrain flour.
“Ancient grains aren’t as well known as other whole grains, so many bakers don’t know how to use them. But the knowledge base surrounding these innovative grains is growing,” said Mike Veil, vice-president of marketing, ConAgra Mills, Omaha, NE. “We’re also working to change the perception of ancient grains so that they’re not simply viewed as grains, but flours and, furthermore, blends that can work in any operation or application, particularly mainstream applications.”
Yet the perception of whole grains still remains a challenge, especially among young consumers, according to Project Educate, Act, Thrive at the University of Minnesota, Minneapolis. The research group’s data found that palatability barriers continue to hold consumption of whole grains down, with children eating around 0.6 to 0.7 servings per day, much less than the recommended three servings.
ARTISAN ENHANCED. If bakers like Michel Suas have anything to say about the matter, ancient grains will have a much larger audience in the next evolution of artisan breads. Like many bakers, Mr. Suas, president and founder of San Francisco Baking Institute (SFBI), South San Francisco, CA, previously categorized ancient grains as bad tasting and difficult to work with. On second look, he discovered ancient grains can be used and enjoyed without limitation. “I think ancient grains are coming back to the marketplace because we have more knowledge about the grains,” Mr. Suas said. “Now we are able to produce more consistency, and bakers are seeing the value of the flavor and texture provided by ancient grains.”
This year, SBFI again offered classes on ancient grains for use in both artisan and gluten-free baking. Mr. Suas admitted most of SFBI students arrive with the assumption these grains will only produce bread lacking in flavor and texture. “Forget everything you’ve learned about ancient grains or anything you’ve tasted before,” he continued. “You’ve got to relearn what you know about these grains and reinvent yourself as a baker in order to produce new products.”
STORIED GRAINS. Manufacturers such as Bob’s Red Mill have built their success on a backbone of hearty, wholegrain organic products. The grain purveyor focuses on hard-core enthusiasts, providing grains in whole, flour or blended forms, as well as developing recipes that help consumers get the most from the whole grain’s flavor and nutrition. The company’s heirloom (ancient) grain offerings include quinoa, teff, Kamut grains and amaranth flour.
In addition to the heirloom grains’ hearty nutritional profiles, the company also promotes their storied history. “The culinary crowds are already savvy about grains, and they want new grains, textures and flavors,” said Matt Cox, marketing manager, Bob’s Red Mill. “The heirloom grains have a great narrative that can be traced back to a region, and I think consumers of these grains enjoy a more enlightened, meaningful eating experience because it contains a back-story and narrative.”
Mr. Cox recounted a story about how amaranth, a Mesoamerican grain used ritually by the Aztecs, was banned by the invading Spanish. Viewed as pauper’s food, consumption declined and many South Americans suffered nutritionally. As the US market for amaranth emerged, the stigma attached to the grain was shed and nutrition increased among South Americans who began to eat amaranth again.
NEEDED NUTRITION. Beyond a great story, ancient/heirloom grains have long provided a reliable nutrition option for celiacs and consumers of gluten-free foods. “The beauty of the ancient grains is that you receive all the benefits of whole grains — the germ, bran and endosperm,” said Carol Fenster, who develops gluten-free mixes for Bob’s Red Mill. “All the nutrients are still there, and they are going to digest more slowly as a complex carbohydrate.”
An Italian study in Minerva Med cited the palatability and health benefits from fermenting ancient grains into sourdough-like bread. Researchers found this processing method results in the creation of gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA),•a substance that, according to the National Institutes of Health, can be important in brain health, especially in guarding against seizures. Leslie Cerier, author and food industry consultant, also pointed out these ancient grains are also generally organic and GMO-free.
Ms. Fenster, a life-long celiac, has relied on the use of sorghum as the main protein flour in recipes. The sorghum flour replaces white rice flour. Once grown primarily as animal feed, food-grade or sweet sorghum is now also bred for use as both a grain and flour. The white sorghum eliminates the bitter tannins of the animal-grade red sorghum. Because of the stronger flavors associated with ancient grains, Ms. Fenster recommended that these flours are always blended with starchier flours to provide lift, aeration and a more mild flavor.
Montina, created from a wild Native American rice grass, is another go-to flour for many gluten-free bakers. The high-protein, high-calcium flour is available flaked and gives foods the appearance of a product made with whole wheat. Mesquite flour is another ancient grain option, although its use is less prevalent. The mesquite pod has strong, cocoa-like properties that make it a good match for spiced products but not for bread.
According to Beth Hillson, president, American Celiac Disease Alliance, the nutritional qualities of ancient grains are especially important for gluten-free consumers who already may be nutrient deficient. “All of the ancient grains have a lot of protein and fiber and are nutritionally balanced,” said Ms. Hillson, editor of Living Without magazine. “Traditionally many flours such as the white rice flour used in the production of gluten-free products have only had carbohydrates. Because the gluten is missing, these ancient grains add back needed protein.” These nutritional qualities become all the more important with a growing prevalence of obesity among gluten-free consumers, according to Ms. Fenster.
This year, Kamut International, a producer of Khorasan wheat, a form of Triticum turanicum, will publish research reporting individuals with wheat-sensitivities can tolerate the Kamut brand of grain. The research funded by the Great Falls, MT, company outlines the differences between ancient and modern wheat at a biochemical and nutritional level. The company is also working with SFBI to develop a line of bread mixes made with the grain.
“We try to keep the old grains message new by reporting the results of research, making more people aware of it and by providing additional ways to use the products,” said Bob Quinn, founder, Kamut International.
INCREASING VISIBILITY. As with any unknown, it pays to do your research. Ancient grain applications will continue to grow, but education about the product, processing differences and their nutritional attributes remains an important consideration. “Take all your knowledge of processing, fermentation and technology and apply it to these ancient grains,” Mr. Suas said. “By understanding the grains and their characteristics, we can create something that’s a pleasure to eat.” •
